This trip is something of a dreamy out-of-this-world experience. Because it is full of local surprises – and wonderful, affordable stays.
It begins in Munich, which is not only our HQ but also the gateway to the south. You can practically see the Alps from sundowners on a rooftop terrace. In summer, things here loosen up: surfers cycle shirtless to ride the Eisbach wave at the Englischer Garden, and the beer gardens are hopping – you’ll even spot a few dirndls, which adds to the city’s charm. (For out-of-towners who want to stay a couple of days, we’d recommend Cortiina or Louis Hotel.)
On weekends, locals flock to the lakes south of the city and to the Allgäu region to enjoy nature. And so from Munich, we wind our way through Austria’s Bregenzerwald, across Switzerland, down to Lake Lugano, on to Lake Como, then further south to the coastal villages of Liguria and into Provence. Effectively, Munich to Marseille. For us, it’s the perfect trip – that’s why we also shared it on our friend’s website, the YOLO journal.
From Munich, we’re heading south towards the Alps and the Allgäu region—think of it as Bavaria’s answer to New York’s Catskills. There, you check into Rosso (apartments from $250), where Christian and his wife Veronika welcome guests to a farmstead reminiscent of a Bavarian version of Inness: chickens roaming the grounds, a natural swimming pond and beautifully designed apartments. Officially self-catering, the place nonetheless seems to offer something delicious at almost any hour. What I’d do: Take the house canoe and paddle down the Iller River, then use the outdoor oven to prepare your own pizza – all ingredients can be bought from the Rosso shop. P.S. Its location also makes a visit to the famous Neuschwanstein Castle an easy excursion.
After a couple of days, the trip continues just a one-hour drive into Austria, to the mountains of the Bregenz Forest—Bregenzer Wald. At the Hirschen (around 270 USD a night) – a fairytale inn with 300 years of history – the new generation, Pia and Peter Fetz, have transformed the property into a “cool place for cool people.“ The recently opened a striking new bathhouse with an always-heated outdoor pool, along with an exceptionally curated one-of-a-kind wine list with hard-to-find Austrian jewels and some rare natural wines. Dinner at their restaurant (in the main house dating back to 1755), which has a Michelin green star, is refined yet refreshingly unpretentious. I always go for a hike or a bike ride up to Bödele mountain, followed by a bath in the ice-cold river – ask the host Peter to join you. He loves it.
From the Hirschen, Switzerland’s highways quickly lead south to Lake Maggiore (a 3-hour drive). Since it lies directly along the route, one could plan a lunch stop with decorated Swiss chef Andreas Caminada. He is the chef at Schloss Schauenstein, one of the best restaurants in Europe, awarded with 3 Michelin stars. At his outpost Casa Caminada (next to Schloss Schauenstein), there is also a casual lunch option, a bit more relaxed and often possible to book on short notice.
By afternoon, you’ll arrive at a true insider address: La Vecchia Dogana (doubles around $220), a former customs station straddling Switzerland and Italy. Host Elisabetta, a design and hospitality aficionado, recently renovated it. Guests stay in cozy rooms and, in a nod to earlier travel traditions, share bathrooms. It’s a place to slow down and ease into the rhythms of Ticino. Both lakes – Lago Maggiore and Lake Lugano – are only a 20-minute drive away. Elisabetta always recommends going for a hike up the Lema Mountain, from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of both lakes. For dinner, head to Osteria La Chiave d’Oro in the town of Sessa (5 min. by car), with a view of Monte Rosa and beautiful sunsets at aperitif hour.
No northern Italian journey feels complete without Lake Como, but instead of the €1,500 per night palaces, our recommendation would be Ca’ Spiga, run by the local brothers Alessandro and Andrea. Perched above George Clooney’s famed villa in Laglio, it offers antique rooms painted in greens, blues and yellows, tiles from the 19th century, enameled pots and lake views included – for about $200 a night for two! The effect is quietly magical.
Special: Enjoy a long lunch at Da Luciano, a former butcher’s shop with a true vintage touch. Order a simple plate with a selection of antipasti and meats and some bread. Heaven on earth. Another fun combination: Head down to the famous Villa d’Este (12 mins by car) and enjoy their menu (around $270 per person) with a view of the lake. Since you saved on the room, you can spend a bit more here – it’s worth it.
Gradually, the road begins to tilt toward the sea. We bypass Milan and head directly to the newly opened Casa Pernice (about $300 a night) in the little village of Lavagna. Its owners, Giorgia and Davide, once ran a beloved guesthouse on Lake Como, before stumbling upon this place on the Ligurian coast and deciding to start anew. Today, they host travelers in three exuberantly colorful rooms and one apartment that feel more like an artist’s hideaway than a hotel.
The real draw, however, lies just down the road: the pair have also opened their own beach club, Bagni Mignon, styled with a laid-back ’70s vintage flair. Striped umbrellas, faded loungers. Italia unplugged. PS: When in Liguria, we highly recommend taking a boat to the San Fruttuoso Monastery in late afternoon- floating past the villas of Portofino. The scenery feels out of a fairytale here. Best dinner nearby: L’Ulivo in the village of Barassi. It is the opposite of a fine-dining place, but imagine a typical Italian mother serving you trofie with homemade pesto alla Genovese on a terrace overlooking the Ligurian bay, and you get the picture.
We continue the road trip via Portofino (skip it due to mass tourism) to Alassio, and the newly opened Casa d’Artista (from 350 USD). The owner’s grandchildren recently converted the former artists’ residence into a B&B with only three very old-school guest rooms, all with sea views. What we loved the most: breakfast arrives each morning in a stylish vintage picnic basket on the balcony – for about $300 a night and hard to beat. Stay for two nights and enjoy the day at the beach.
Staying along the Mediterranean, the journey continues past Monaco and Nice into the hills behind the busy art towns of Mougins and Saint-Paul-de-Vence. There, Judith Thiel, a German expatriate, has created the four-room retreat L’Escale du Ciel (around 220 USD a night) with what may be one of the region’s most enchanting pools to match. We promise, you haven’t seen anything like it for sunrise. In the evening, a short 150-meter walk leads to one of the area’s most authentic local restaurants at Hotel Particulier des Jasmines. Think of a 1920s French novel. It does not get any better.
With the lavender fields of Provence just a short drive away, we recommend a short detour to Cédric George’s small château Domaine de la Ponche. Once his family residence, it has recently opened to guests, which is heaven on Earth. The small castle (doubles around 350 USD) sits in Vacqueyras, just ten minutes from the famed vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A private chef will prepare your dinner – nothing fancy, more the authentic Provencal ratatouille and a glass of the chateau’s own red wine. Mont Ventoux rises to the east – ambitious cyclists might even consider tackling it. Wine aficionados, of course, should try getting a date at Chateau Beaucastel, the region‘s most famous vineyard. The owners, the Perrin family, also used to run the Miraval vineyard (formerly owned by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie), so you get a glimpse of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape fame.
We’re heading back to the sea to get some rest. Our final destination is the island of Porquerolles, off Hyères, about an hour southeast of Marseille. For the French, the island is something like a hidden Nantucket – a nature reserve completely free of big hotels or chains. Here, Le Porquerollais (doubles around $400), owned by Ines and more restaurant than hotel, offers five easy-styled rooms right on the village square, a pétanque court out front and long-lasting seafood dinners in the evening. You might practice your French before checking in.
If you are still on the active side: the locals love to do the Circuit de Langouster hike. The secluded path gives you a good sense of the island’s diverse ecosystem, taking you through a series of protected cliffs, vineyards, crystalline creeks, pine forests, and forts. If you are done with activities, set down your towel at the Gorges du Loup beach. A perfect end to an unforgettable journey.
©Pretty Hôtels
