Where are we
Once a functioning customs station – Vecchia Dogana in Italian – this yellow house sits between Italy and Switzerland, exactly halfway between the fairytale lakes Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano. In this very historic version of a border post, officials worked until the 1940s to prevent smugglers from bringing goods across the frontier. Today, the road leading here is a dead end, and the journey is pure delight: tight switchbacks, tiny villages, and then a glimpse of the house that had us instantly enthralled.
the place
The Vecchia Dogana is a refuge for nostalgists, for travelers who love seclusion, authenticity, and a natural sense of aesthetics. Behind the property, the garden blooms in a riot of colors; inside, the ground-floor rooms feel warm and welcoming. In truth, everything is even lovelier than the photos suggest. The original room layout has been carefully preserved – including the floor-level bathrooms that serve multiple rooms and yet blend gracefully into the house’s concept. History remains intact, and the feeling is understated, honest, unvarnished.
The host
Elisabetta, the host, is a striking presence. Hands-on, warm, and gifted with a refined eye for design. She studied tourism and worked in remote cities such as London, Paris and even Abu Dhabi, but she found her true passion at this project in the lovely Ticino mountains. And this love for detail is visible in every room. Selected design classics – many salvaged from hotel liquidations – form a harmonious cabinet of curiosities. Personal photographs by her partner adorn the walls. Everything feels individual, nothing staged. A lot of guests have planned to stay short, but remained longer simply because they felt so at ease. Naturally, they return again and again.
The rooms
The Vecchia Dogana offers five rooms, each with a balcony and a view into the valley. Everywhere you spot small design gems, thoughtfully combined. The floor-level bathrooms are shared by two or three rooms, but fear not: nothing about it evokes a youth-hostel vibe. Guests slip into the waffle-piqué bathrobe waiting in the room and walk to one of the immaculate bathrooms.
On the ground floor, a long communal table forms the breakfast room, where all guests gather. Elisabetta prepares breakfast personally, with great care and affection. You can feel how deeply she looks after the well-being of her visitors. In summer, many prefer to sit outside in the garden – charmingly imperfect, and therefore perfect.
Upstairs, a small shared kitchen allows guests to prepare their own food. Drinks operate on an honesty basis. Here and there, a touch of quaintness shines through. But that, too, is part of the house’s character.
the Vision
The idea behind Vecchia Dogana is as simple as it is lovely: to preserve this special place and bring together people who understand and appreciate it. The focus is not on perfection but on atmosphere. Since dedicating herself to the house full-time, Elisabetta has crafted many plans for its future. We look forward to returning regularly and watching its evolution unfold.
Brownie Points
Because the former smuggling route is now completely closed, this valley forms a natural cul-de-sac. The Vecchia Dogana is the last house on the road and wonderfully quiet. Just 500 meters away lies Lago di Astano, a small, charming lake with a jetty and a tiny bathing island. An ideal spot to cool off after a hike or day trip.
Food & Drink
The Vecchia Dogana is a B&B. Lunch and dinner are taken elsewhere, which is a pleasure in Ticino, where the tradition of small, unfussy restaurants still thrives. In the village of Astano – just a 15 minutes walk from the house – you’ll even find a pizzeria. There’s also the possibility to have dinner at the hotel, but you need to book it in advance and the minimum number of guests would be 10 pax.
When to Go
Summer is the most beautiful season, when you can open the doors to the garden, enjoy breakfast outdoors, and savor the valley’s silence. Between the two large lakes, the climate stays mild. Perfect for hiking, swimming, reading, or simply unwinding. But Spring and autumn? Also beautiful for mountain biking, hiking and exploring the region.
Getting There
The house is best reached by car and that is part of its charm: secluded, quiet, at the end of the world yet in the middle of paradise. It takes about two hours from Milan and three from Zurich. PS: A smaller car is advantageous for navigating the narrow lanes of Ticino’s villages.
Pairing It With
For travelers who enjoy the style of Vecchia Dogana, two similar properties – and Pretty Hôtels members – beckon: Cà Spiga on the western shore of Lake Como and Maso Zambo on the eastern side. A wonderful combination is also a detour into the nearby Engadin, ideally with a stay at Hotel Fex, which likewise offers a few rooms with shared bathrooms.
Prices
Single rooms from €118. Double rooms from €193, including breakfast.
Booking & Contacts
Vecchia Dogana Guesthouse
Ara Dogana 5
6999 Astano
Switzerland
Tel: +4176428 06 43
©picture from the house courtesy of Petra Rainer.
