To reach this singular gem, the journey begins with a leisurely ferry ride from Naples to Ischia. It takes just about an hour – long enough to watch the city recede and the Mediterranean come alive through the salt-streaked windows. Soon, the island emerges: lush and green, dotted with whitewashed houses and boats gently bobbing in waters that shimmer between blue and emerald.
Ischia is everything Capri is not. Where Capri is polished and exclusive, Ischia is colorful, eccentric, and wonderfully unpretentious.
A taxi winds through narrow streets toward the peninsula crowned by the Castello Aragonese. At a checkpoint, a museum guard asks your purpose. Flash your reservation, and you’re waved through. You’re told to take the elevator, and then to walk – a short uphill stroll through stone alleys – until you find a small doorbell.
At the top, you’re not just arriving – you’re stepping into something almost sacred. The Castello Aragonese is part fortress, part monastery, with centuries-old walls and timeworn passageways that lead to echoing halls steeped in history. The sea has left its mark here – in the salt-crusted stone, in the air. The foundations date back to 474 BC and were built by a Greek who had received the island as a reward for his military service.
By day, these alleys hum with visitors who come to admire the history of the monastery. But ring the bell, and you leave the world behind. What lies beyond is a private sanctuary – a quiet, artful retreat suspended between sea and sky.
A place like no other.
In the 16th century nuns inhabited the fortress and lived under austere monastic rules. By 1912 – the structure had fallen into ruin – the local lawyer, Nicola Ernesto Mattera, purchased the property – 46.000 square meters of ruins for around 56.000 lire (small note: He wasn’t even rich, he just had the vision, that it could become something special in the future).
Over a century later, the castle remains in the hands of the Mattera family, who are determined to preserve its legacy – and its extraordinary views – for generations of guests to come.
In the late afternoon, we meet Cristina and her brother Nicola, the current stewards of the hotel. They live on the island themselves, quietly overseeing the care and upkeep of this immense heritage site. Their mother was German, which explains their fluent, lilting German – and their worldly perspective.
And what can one say? Il Monastero Castello Aragonese is one of those places that defy definition. It doesn’t feel like a hotel – not in the traditional sense. It’s not a commercial venture, and it certainly doesn’t follow hospitality trends. To spend a night here is to inhabit a monument – and one perched on a rock off the coast of one of Italy’s most exclusive islands.
As Nicola puts it: “Every renovation here is a massive effort. Everything has to be carried up by hand.” If a sun umbrella breaks, someone has to haul a new one to the top. There are no roads. No cars. Just the sea, the stone, and the silence.
Above all – this place is full of style. Not the flashy kind found in the towering hotels of Amalfi, Positano or Capri, but something quieter, more refined. Everything here is of high quality, thoughtfully chosen, understated.
On our second afternoon, we sat in the garden, lemon trees at our backs, the estate’s own grapevines just ahead, marveling at the silence – and the sea.
Of course, in the height of summer, the bay below fills with boats, and the village streets thrum with vacation crowds. “August is madness on the island,” says Cristina. She’d rather not leave the castle at all during that time.
But those lucky enough to secure one of the 20 rooms at the Castello find themselves in a kind of sanctuary. In the mornings, some guests take the elevator down for a quick swim in the sea. Cristina does it every day. Hard to beat.
The rooms
We had the chance to spend one night in Suite No. 8 and another in a “standard” double room. The suite, of course, is a showstopper. Though simply furnished, the walls are adorned with original artworks by Gabriele Mattera – the father of Cristina and Nicola – whose bold, evocative paintings are deeply tied to the island and now considered priceless. Just beyond the window: a large balcony, and beyond that, the open sea. There are few hotel rooms one would choose over this.
Still, it’s important to know: this is not a place of overt luxury. The standard rooms, in particular, are small and very simply appointed. The bathrooms are compact – really just room enough for one person at a time.
But that hardly takes away from the charm. Would we stay longer if we could? Without question.
The restaurant
In the morning, a breakfast buffet is set up in the restaurant – thoroughly appealing. What stood out were the local touches: traditional Italian cakes, fresh mozzarella, cheese with tomatoes, or sardines. Coffee and egg dishes are brought directly to your table – ideally, to be enjoyed on the terrace.
During the day, lunch is available just steps away at the museum’s daytime café, roughly 50 meters from the hotel. But dinner is where the experience truly shines. One evening, we indulged in the tasting menu: five courses of Neapolitan-inspired dishes. A delicate fish carpaccio for instance, a perfectly poached egg resting in a divine tomato sauce, and – the standout – the house signature: spaghetti al dente with pine nuts, raisins, and mint. Many of the ingredients come from their own garden behind the hotel. During your day, you basically walk through your fine dining menu.
We paired the menu with a bottle of “Castello,” the estate’s own white wine, grown and harvested from the vines just beside the monastery’s garden. At €50 a bottle, it feels like a gift.
The monastery
In the afternoon, Cristina took us on a brief tour of the monastery grounds. By day, the castle functions as a public museum, so in summer you’ll occasionally see small groups wandering the fortress’s ancient alleys – though always separated from the private hotel area. Her parents began restoring parts of the complex in the 1970s, carefully uncovering its long and layered history. Some rooms hold remarkable – and at times haunting – traces of the past, including stories of the strict rituals once observed by the nuns who lived here.
Cristina’s parents were also the first to welcome guests, back when accommodations were minimal. Visitors were given a bedsheet and a candle – there was no electricity. Her father, Gabriele Mattera, converted a patio into an art studio, where he painted many of the striking works now hanging in the hallways. The studio has since become a small gallery shop, and today, Cristina oversees her father’s legacy through the association Amici di Gabriele Mattera.
One of the most beautiful moments comes at dusk, when you walk back down to the main island on foot and the setting sun casts its golden light over the castle’s warm, sandy stone.
Ideal for
This is a place for art and culture lovers – travelers who appreciate the rare and the meaningful in a setting like this. It is not a hotel suited for children.
Rates
Single rooms start at around €160. Double rooms are approximately between €240 – €340, suite No. 8 around €450 and the Altana apartment (for four people) around 500 – 600 euros per night. All including breakfast. Prices vary depending on the season. Availability can be checked here.
Season
The hotel is open from April 18 to November 10.
Booking & Contacts
Il Monastero –
Castello Aragonese d’Ischia
80077 Ischia (NA)
Italy
