Where are we?
On the island of Porquerolles, between Marseille and Saint-Tropez, off the Côte d’Azur. This is one of those rare, magnetic places that stirs something deep in the soul and yet holds you still. It is not just an island but a protected national park off France’s Mediterranean coast. Regulars sail over in early summer and come back in October, when the island breathes more slowly. Exploring its secret coves, hauling in the lobster nets as the sun breaks over the water, biking across sweeping, untamed landscapes: It all adds up to an endless love for this place.
It truly is a place like no other, and even though we are recommending it here, it should remain something of a hidden gem.
The Hotel
One of the island’s best-kept secrets is Le Porquerollais, a timeless restaurant with just six simple yet authentic rooms. Inspired by Balinese interiors (Ines spends her winters in Bali), it feels almost like the deck of a vintage yacht. The food reflects the island’s deep connection to the sea. Each morning, local fishermen arrive with the day’s catch, including spiny lobster, sea bream, scorpionfish and red mullet, all caught just offshore with traditional lines and nets.
What We Love
How authentic this place is, not to mention its location right on the village square, where locals gather for pétanque and watch the village quiet down at night.
National Park
Good to know: Porquerolles is part of Port-Cros National Park, a protected area. Hike and swim responsibly, keep the island clean and don’t disturb the wildlife.
Getting Around
Cars are not allowed for visitors, but you can rent bikes on the island. We recommend Le Cycle Porquerollais in the village, at around 18 euros a day.
Favorite Beaches
La Courtade. A 15-minute walk or five minutes by bike. Vivid ocher, opalescent blue, forest green and sandy beige. Its shallow water, sailing club and proximity to the village make it perfect for families.
Gorges du Loup. A 15-minute bike ride. A secluded, unspoiled cove. What we love most is the way there, through some of the most bucolic parts of the island.
La Galère. A two-and-a-half-hour hike or an hour by bike. A challenging hike, but worth the effort: crystal-clear water and the feeling of being at the end of the world, despite the name (French for “ordeal”). There are no shops nearby, so bring water and food.
Hikes
We highly recommend a long hike on Porquerolles. A local favorite is the loop around the Langoustier peninsula. This long but easy five-hour hike circles the western part of the island, crossing from south to north and looping around from there. The secluded path gives you a good sense of the island’s diverse ecosystem, leading past protected cliffs, vineyards, crystal-clear coves, pine forests and old forts.
Getting There
Ferries leave from several points on the coast (Toulon, Saint-Tropez and others), but the closest port is La Tour Fondue, on the Giens peninsula near Hyères. In season, boats run about every 30 minutes, and the crossing takes about 15 minutes. Come early in the morning to find parking, and check the time of the last boat back.
When to Visit
May and June, then September and October, to avoid the stifling high-season crowds.
Prices
Doubles from about 200 euros (low season) to 350 euros (high season) per night.
Booking & Contact
Hôtel Le Porquerollais
7, Place d’Armes
83400 Île de Porquerolles
France
+33 4 94 12 32 70
© All photos: Garance Bazin | @djibaze
