Where are we?
The Old Town of Rhodes draws you in like a labyrinth – narrow cobbled alleys, Ottoman archways, and cats napping in patches of shade in the afternoon heat. You will nearly miss the entrance to Marco Polo Mansion; so seamlessly is it folded into the thick medieval walls, it feels less like a hotel and more like a secret. But then, through one of three unassuming doors, a world unveils itself: a burst of colour and light – the kind of place that immediately draws you inward.
THE STORY
More than two decades ago, Italian artist Giuseppe Sala and his friend Effie Dede – a local and collaborator at the Marco Polo Gallery – wandered into a derelict Turkish mansion featuring a harem, a hamam, and a lingering sense of something once grand. It didn’t take long: they knew they had found a spot to create.
Together with Effie’s husband Spiros, they began a slow, respectful restoration. The lime-washed walls were coloured with natural pigments, windows once bricked in were opened again, and the rooms were restored to their original proportions. Local carpenters built furniture from Catrani and Lebanese cedar woods, and old Ottoman pieces were salvaged.
Today, Marco Polo Mansion feels like it’s always been there. Given its nearly 30-year run, it kind of has maintained a harmony between past and present.
THE ROOMS
There are just nine rooms, each with its own mood and story, some on the front part of the mansion, some on the back. High ceilings, arched windows, antique trunks, hand-painted tiles – photogenic is an understatement. A few rooms are located near the restaurant and may carry the gentle chatter of dinner service until midnight – but they are fairly priced for the small inconvenience.
THE RESTAURANT
Surrounded by stone, the garden is the heart and focal point of the mansion – a green, fragrant courtyard where we gather for slow breakfasts. At night, the same garden dons its hat, becoming a vibrant restaurant, open for hotel guests and visitors, and run by Effie’s son, Savvas. His enthusiasm and energy for hospitality are seen into his dedication to wine and the creative seasonal dishes on menu – undoubtedly one of the best meals we had on the island. The spontaneous rhythm between the family and long-standing staff adds to the charm of the ambience.
The experience
What makes this place truly unforgettable is the family. Effie is the soul of the house – a larger-than-life character who embodies everything Marco Polo stands for. Her presence is felt everywhere: in the warm hospitality, the aesthetic sensibility, the joyful sense of embrace. Even the in-house store, filled with hand-picked block-printed garments from her travels through India, bears her unmistakable touch.
Spiros, her husband, tends to the hotel and its guests with quiet dedication. Their son, Savvas, handles the restaurant and all things behind the scenes. When we arrived, it was Savvas who helped with our luggage, Spiros who showed us to our room, and Effie who spontaneously invited us to join her for a home-cooked lunch in the garden. Nothing felt formal – just natural, almost nonchalant.
Watching the family and their long-standing staff is like peeking into the heart of a Greek household. They move around each other like a fast-paced ping pong match – teasing and laughing one moment, serving and fixing the next. Most of all, they seem to be having a lot of fun. It’s no wonder Marco Polo Mansion has many returning guests – including a few high-profile ones who come here for its unassuming charm.
THE ISLAND
Rhodes is an island of many faces. It’s one of Greece’s busiest destinations, rich with history, culture, and contradictions. Ancient ruins meet medieval fortresses, beach towns give way to wild hills, and touristy promenades exist alongside untouched mountain villages. The Old Town, where Marco Polo Mansion sits, is a UNESCO-protected gem – pedestrian-only, full of texture and tourists, but brimming with stories.
If you want to explore the rest of the island, just ask Spiros. He’ll sit with you and offer recommendations only a veteran local has access to. From peaceful beaches in the south to inland wineries and quiet monasteries, he’ll draw everything for you on a map.
Ideal for
Travelers who seek soul. Lovers of history and places with a sense of character and presence. Couples, solo wanderers, families, or friends who want to slow down and stay a while.
Journey
Fly into Rhodes (RHO). From the airport or port, it’s a short drive to the Old Town. Spiros will arrange a taxi that takes you and your luggage all the way through the pedestrian area directly to the hotel – so you don’t have to drag suitcases over historic cobblestones.
Combine with
Probably the best combination is to stay at Marco Polo Mansion to get to know Rhodes and then head to Symi to 1900 Hotel, which is also a member of the Pretty Hôtels family.
Rates
From €180/night. Open from April until October.
Booking & Contacts
Marco Polo Mansion
Agiou Fanouriou 40,
Old Town, Rhodes 85100
Greece