Perhaps it is because its people keep to themselves that Andros, a less-traveled Cycladic island just a two-hour ferry ride from Rafina, near Athens, has quietly held on to its native charms. With a wild, varied landscape of lush vegetation and springs, the island has traditionally been a community of farmers, fishermen and shipowners, blending Venetian, Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, with impressive art collections in its marvelous main town, Chora.
It comes as no surprise, then, that Mèlisses, a true gem of a beachfront retreat, still doesn’t have its own pin on the island’s maps.
“It’s part of the journey, part of the treasure hunt,” says Allegra Pomilio, the young Italian owner from Abruzzo, who came to the island with her family some years ago and fell in love with it.
As you descend the steep, winding road (a four-wheel drive is advisable!) to the hidden entrance of Mèlisses, you are rewarded with a view that takes you back to Andros’s seafaring past, when women gazed across the deep blue, waiting for their husbands to return.
Near the village of Aprovato, not far from Batsi, the 2.5-acre property sits above a private rocky beach looking out toward the island of Gyaros. It melts into the landscape, its rugged rocks and native plants enveloping you in calm.
Allegra opened the house at just 24, and it clearly reflects her well-traveled free spirit and sense of wonder. A gifted photographer and art director with a penchant for antiques, she has decorated the six rooms with simplicity and soul, combining French mattresses, Italian linen and old furniture from local mansions. One of them, a separate villa, has its own private pool; everyone else can watch the sunset from the pleasantly salty infinity pool in front of the main house.
But the true heart of Mèlisses beats at the long communal wooden table and in the open kitchen with its stunning counter (a repurposed old marble balcony), where all the culinary magic happens.
Mèlisses is a foodie’s paradise if you want to dig deeper. Breakfast is a daily ritual and a feast for the senses, made with produce from the garden, eggs from the hens and homemade jams, tarts and the Greek “spoon sweets” made from the fruit trees. Allegra also offers cooking classes, where you get to eat the delicious meals you helped make, and she will prepare private dinners on request. From April to October, there are also retreats led by acclaimed chefs and food photographers, with foraging excursions and visits to local cheesemakers. Here’s a link to their retreats.
Beyond the table, and even though you will be tempted to stay all day in this secluded paradise, there is plenty to experience on Andros, and once you are there, the island readily reveals its secrets. And at the end of the day, you will feel lucky to be back at Mèlisses, stargazing before bed.
Ideal for
Honeymooners, couples, food lovers and cool families.
Location
About 25 minutes by car from the port of Gavrio and 35 to 40 minutes from Chora, the main town.
Prices
Depending on the season, doubles from 295 to 365 euros per night; the whole house from 590 to 750 euros per night.
Booking & Contact
Mèlisses Andros
Aprovato, Andros
Greece
