The location
Let us begin with bearings. Everyone knows Barcelona, so from there, we drive one hour and thirty minutes up the Costa Brava, before turning left to a landscape that feels almost enchanted. In the distance, the snow-capped Pyrenees rise to 3,000 metres, while below, meadows glow with yellow blossoms. It is the kind of countryside that invites long, indulgent road rides – or leisurely gravel explorations between ancient stone villages.
A narrow lane eventually winds its way up to a 17th-century estate: all weathered stone, climbing vines, and a sense of quiet permanence. At the door, Berta, the ever-charming house manager, offers a warm welcome.
This is Off Grid Girona. Ten charming rooms, a pool, a yoga studio, a bicycle garage, restaurant and bar, as well as a separate house with a four-bedroom apartment suited to families or small groups.
The host
The driving force behind it all is Gerard, an Englishman who has come here to realise a rather different vision of hospitality. Greene is no novice; he once upended the industry with the capsule concept of Yotel – compact rooms in prime locations at accessible prices. There`s even one on New York’s Times Square.
After parting ways with his investors some years ago, he spent time searching for an antidote. “Something beautiful and meaningful, in the sun, with mountains, the sea and plenty of nature,” as he puts it. He found it by accident: a hillside estate, purchased in 2024 and restored with an admirable restraint. There is no design gimmickry here – only local materials, fabrics and objects that root the house firmly in its surroundings.
The place
This is not a five-star wellness retreat in the conventional sense. Rather, it feels like the home of a well-travelled friend with excellent taste and even better ideas about how to bring a place to life.
On our visit in early spring, three other guests were in residence, all of whom we met over dinner at a long communal table. The evening unfolded as a Catalan feast: vegetable and fish bruschetta, salad from the house’s own permaculture garden, followed by a generous seafood paella and a deeply chocolatey dessert. It was cooking of a remarkably high standard. Just let the kitchen know, if you want to have dinner at the hotel in advance and they will organize it.
Gerard’s fondness for natural wines is evident, too; bottles are readily available, often taken from the honesty bar and enjoyed by the pool as the light fades.
A brief aside: the IPA from the nearby Hopsters Brewery in Besalú – Gerard took us there for a little cycling excursion the following day – comes highly recommended.
The guest rooms
We stayed in room number One, effectively a small suite on the first floor with two spaces, morning sun and a freshly renovated bathroom. The view stretches across the pool towards a monastery beyond. Throughout the house, Gerard has restored original antiques. Writing desks, armchairs, paintings, which lend the interiors a quietly authentic air. One feels, at moments, as though inhabiting the refined residence of a Spanish count.
Even the standard double rooms are impeccably done, with newly fitted bathrooms, some retaining original tiles. Particular praise must go to the duvets, sourced from a local workshop; they have the soft, lived-in feel of a perfectly worn James Perse T-shirt. One could, quite happily, spend an entire day in bed.
In the adjacent building, the four-bedroom apartment offers a more private option for families or groups.
Cyclists
Off Grid Girona describes itself as a retreat, and that feels entirely apt. Gerard is an avid cyclist, and the garage is thoughtfully equipped for larger groups. Bikes – road, gravel and mountain – can be easily hired in Girona (which is sort of the capital of cycling in Europe), and the surrounding terrain is exceptional.
In spring, especially, we’d recommend booking some rooms with a group of friends for a week of training. Greene has mapped out more than 30 routes directly from the door, ranging from 20 to 150 kilometres, each as scenic as the last.
There are also some curated cycling retreats this spring / summer. Just check the Off Grid Cycle website for dates and infos.
Yoga
The property also lends itself beautifully to yoga retreats of all kinds.
Surroundings
Despite its seclusion, the wider region is within easy reach. The beaches of the Costa Brava lie just 35 minutes away, via Figueres towards Empuriabrava. Cadaqués, arguably the most enchanting coastal town, can be reached in about an hour. Girona’s historic centre is a 30-minute drive, and even Perpignan, across the French border, is little more than an hour away.
Ideal for
At its best, Off Grid Girona is experienced as a place for full relaxation: a place to gather a small group and make full use of what is on offer – bikes, workshop, chef, pool, and seamless housekeeping – for something like a spring cycling escape.
That said, couples and solo travellers will find it equally appealing: a relaxed summer retreat with reasonable prices where one quickly falls into conversation with like-minded guests and, before long, feels part of an easygoing community.
Kids
Should be 14 years and older.
Rates
Doubles around 240 euros per night including breakfast / suites are a bit more expensive. There is also a 20% discount at the moment in spring.
Booking & Contacts
Off Grid Girona
Mas Salvanera
Carretera Maià de Montcal
17850 Beuda (Girona)
Spain
