First, Valencia: a city that is actually happy to live in the shadow of Barcelona and Madrid. Prices are still fairly moderate, people aren’t snooty and the bars are down-to-earth rather than hip. Instead, there is a fantastic mix of grand Art Nouveau architecture, modern Calatrava buildings and a really beautiful city beach, where you can have the famous paella from huge pans for lunch.
The hotel
On the lower edge of the up-and-coming Ruzafa neighborhood, Bertrand and Fabien rescued a completely run-down building. At first glance, it is inconspicuous, quite a contrast to the grand buildings in the center. We ring the bell, and a cheerful Bertrand opens the door to a loft that seems to call out at once: “Welcome, all of you, whether for a drink at the big bar (which doubles as the reception) or to stay as long as you like.”
Trust us: The farther you venture inside and the better you get to know them, the longer you will want to stay.
La Novieta is a fabulous place with only four guest rooms, all of them extremely inviting. We loved the old-school bathrooms and the beautifully arranged furniture. Everything is of the highest quality, especially the design, which the couple largely did themselves. There is also a kind of lounge in the courtyard, where you can have a drink (or breakfast) in summer.
Breakfast
Speaking of breakfast: Bertrand and Fabien are originally from Paris, which partly explains the style and the whole setup of the house. They fell in love with Valencia a few years ago and now combine the best of both worlds, the food included. Fabien worked in luxury hotels for many years and conjures up a kind of gourmet menu in the morning that we have otherwise found only at one of our favorite members, the Ottmanngut in Merano.
During our visit, they served a buttery zucchini and cheese tart. Let’s just say you won’t find that at the Ritz. There were also homemade jams, salted butter and fruit with yogurt, all organic, all local.
Details
What we really liked: the mix of individual design pieces and the historic treasures Fabien and Bertrand found in the house. Furniture from the 1920s to the 1970s (Gasisa chairs, vintage armchairs by Tito Agnoli) and works by artists such as Kourtney Roy, Matthieu Paley, Darya Yartzeva and Marina Abramović are joined by Farrow & Ball paints, ceramics by Ferres Cerámica and Grespania, lights by Arkoslight, vintage Glashütte Limburg lamps, textiles by Linge de Maison (Bassols) and curtains by Kvadrat.
They even installed underfloor heating in the rooms, since it does get chilly in winter. The old tiles were lifted and then relaid. Beautiful.
Location
Turning into the hotel’s street, Carrer de Vicente Lleó, is nothing like arriving on Wilshire Boulevard. Quite the opposite: Some buildings are empty, others a little dilapidated, and yet it is an intriguing street with highly creative touches. We loved it. In the evening, you tumble straight into the best restaurants and bars of up-and-coming Ruzafa. We had dinner at Le Bar de Vins, a small wine and tapas bar five minutes from the hotel. Super nice.
Ideal for
All Pretty Hotels fans. Valencia is well worth the trip.
Combine with
We recommend four or five days in Valencia, then heading down to Dénia by train. There, we found a lovely Airbnb with sea views called Housita Denia, and a designer’s dream called Aire House by the Madrid-based Studio Marta Woodward. The most beautiful beach south of Dénia is the cove of Cala del Moraig.
Prices
Doubles from 140 euros per night, including breakfast.
Booking & Contact
La Novieta
Bertrand and Fabien
25 Carrer de Vicente Lleó
46006, Valencia
Spain
