To reach Dimora delle Balze, fly into Catania, on the east side of the island. From there, the road heads toward Syracuse, the famous UNESCO World Heritage city on the coast. This part of Sicily is densely populated and busy with locals and tourists alike. After about an hour, we turn inland and arrive at an oasis of peace and quiet.
Welcome to Dimora delle Balze.
Talk about a stylish entrance: A gravel drive lined with meticulously trimmed plants leads to the hotel. We park and enter the cool reception through a small door; the wooden gate dates from the early days of the estate, around 1800. A family from northern Italy bought the former farm in 2009 and gradually turned it into a very harmonious and, above all, unpretentious luxury retreat.
The Place
Staying at Dimora delle Balze, what does that feel like?
First, you stroll through grounds left partly untouched, with ruined columns and views of the estate’s own 27-hectare (67-acre) farm, Passo Ladro.
Notice how you are starting to slow down? The chirping of the crickets, the carob and lemon trees, the natural stone paving: Everything is in harmony, and for now you just want to relax. The bustling towns of Noto and Syracuse can wait their turn (though if you stay longer, you should definitely visit).
In the rooms of the main house, where breakfast is served, you are surrounded by works by Valentine Herrenschmidt, Katrin Arens and Paola Navone. The furniture is made by local artisans and conveys a feeling of Sicily unplugged.
The Rooms
Dimora delle Balze has 11 rooms and suites, spread across the various courtyards, and no two are alike. The historic architecture and the many antiques make them feel very cozy: true retreats with high-quality beds and bathrooms, coffee machines, TVs and beach bags, plus a rather creative pair of bath slippers. The most beautiful is the tower suite, Clandestini, with views over the estate.
Spa
A special shout-out to the small spa, built in a dream spot with wonderful views of the countryside. Massages, beauty treatments and other therapies are on the menu. What the pavilion lacks in size, it makes up for with its sweeping glass front, a real gem for such a small hotel. And the massage we had was probably one of the best of our lives.
Restaurant
The organic restaurant Lumia sits by the pool in the slightly more modern part of the property. It is completely open at the front and serves a light lunch and dinner. Dinner follows slow-food principles, and wherever possible the ingredients come from the hotel’s own farm, Passo Ladro just below. We tried the five-course surprise menu, with fantastic creations such as roe with ginger and Bronte pistachios or mackerel with lemon almonds and green beans.
Things to Do
Dimora delle Balze is the perfect base for excursions. Most guests take day trips to Noto and Syracuse. Syracuse in particular has become a magnet in recent years; the stone city on the sea was founded by Greek settlers in the eighth century B.C. The historic towns of Modica and Ragusa (both an hour’s drive away) are also within easy reach of the Dimora delle Balze.
Combine with
We definitely recommend combining it with Palazzo Previtera on Mount Etna. Both are historic houses, and a hike on Etna and dinner at a restaurant in Linguaglossa are part of the Sicilian experience. Also recommended: five days at Dimora delle Balze, then five days relaxing on the beach at the Adler Spa Resort Sicilia.
Season
Open from March to November.
Prices
Doubles from 450 to 850 euros, including breakfast.
Booking & Contact
Dimora delle Balze
SS 287 KM 6/3
96017 Noto (SR)
Italy
