To reach Filodivino, you head into the hills inland from Ancona, a landscape of vegetable gardens, olive groves, farmhouses and small villages that keep the authentic, homey atmosphere of Italy’s less-traveled countryside.
We arrive to find a brick house set amid sweeping vineyards. First impression? Lovely, like a friend’s vacation home, natural and authentic. A rooster crows in the distance, a tractor crosses the fields, church bells ring.
The Hosts
Leaving Milan in search of a slower, provincial life, Alberto and Alida chose this bucolic corner for their Plan B. At the heart of it all was their passion for wine and their dream of making their own. This is Lacrima di Morro d’Alba country, a particularly good terroir for winemaking.
When they bought it, the property was a ruin surrounded by 60-year-old vines. Today, Filodivino has 19 hectares (47 acres) of vineyards producing around 120,000 bottles a year. The winery is spectacular, a contemporary structure that seems to rise out of the garden. This is where all the wine is made and where tastings are held (highly recommended).
Design and Architecture
The entire project was overseen by architect and friend Cristiana Dell’Acqua, who personally followed every detail. The main house and the adjacent buildings housing the eight rooms were built with 16th-century bricks salvaged from local farmhouses.
Contemporary design blends with the simple materials and details typical of local country houses, and the vineyard is ever present, from the rooms to the spa.
The Rooms
All eight rooms open onto a private veranda overlooking the garden and vines. Five are suites: a luxury suite with a private panoramic terrace, two suites with an extra living area and two grand suites with two bedrooms. Most of the furniture was handmade for Filodivino, and nature is the common thread, from the fabrics to the colors.
Wellness
The pool is a contemporary oasis with breathtaking views of the countryside; in the evening, the panorama looks like a painting. Unusually for the area, the spa is fully equipped: Turkish bath, sauna, Kneipp path and two Jacuzzis, one indoors and one outdoors, plus a gym and a menu of massages and treatments.
Food
Alberto and Alida also bring the region to the table: the cooking is simple, delicious and homemade, with much of the produce from the garden. Lunch is for hotel guests only, while dinner is also open to visitors and locals.
A nice detail: when we visited, the kitchen was run by a very young team of three. Every dinner celebrates local craft and, of course, the estate’s own wines, and on Thursday evenings there is even live jazz.
Experiences
Another plus: the special experiences on offer. Alberto, Alida and manager Daniela are always on hand to share little-known gems: hidden churches, unmissable trattorias and less-traveled beaches, the nearest just 25 minutes away by car.
Many villages are close by: San Marcello, Jesi, Morro d’Alba, Senigallia, Loreto, Recanati, Fano, Cingoli and Elcito. Not to be missed is the Conero Regional Park, with its turquoise water and unspoiled Mediterranean scrub. Wherever you go, you get trustworthy advice, just as you would from friends. Vespa tours and olive oil tastings can be arranged, too, as can a simple snack of crescia and local salami.
Ideal for
Discerning travelers looking for a special, very personal place. A week at Filodivino in the fall is surely one of the most beautiful experiences in Europe.
Getting There
There are good flights to Ancona airport, less than half an hour away by car or taxi.
Prices
Doubles from 280 euros, suites from 347 euros per night for two, including breakfast. Three-night minimum stay in high season.
Dogs
Diana, the family dog, lives at Filodivino, so only one additional small or medium-size dog is welcome at a time, on request and only in a designated suite, for a supplement of 40 euros per day.
Booking & Contact
Filodivino Resort
Via Serra 46
60030 San Marcello
Le Marche, Italy
CIN: IT042041B5HHKBQTEN
