In the far reaches of the Swiss canton of Graubünden, at the edge of the Engadin valley, lies the village of S-chanf. Just fifteen minutes from St. Moritz yet worlds away in temperament, this quiet town has become home to a small hotel that rarely advertises, yet is frequently talked about – especially among those who travel with a particular sensitivity for place and atmosphere.
Villa Flor, located in a 19th-century building just off the main street, doesn’t announce itself with grandeur. But once inside, it is clear that this is not a typical Alpine hotel. The staircases are wide, the ceilings high, the walls filled with art – some of it made by former guests. On a recent visit, a group of guests had gathered in the salon, deep in conversation about literature and painting. No one seemed in a hurry to go anywhere.
This sense of stillness and thoughtfulness carries throughout the house. The hotel’s owner, Ladina Florineth, grew up in the region and spent years working in the art world. She has filled the house with objects and furniture gathered on her travels – not curated in a deliberate sense, but selected with care. The result feels less like a hotel and more like a lived-in home for artists and thinkers.
Each of the six rooms is individually furnished. There are no uniform styles or themes, but a shared sense of material quality and restraint. Some rooms are spacious, others more minimal, but all are coherent in their aesthetic: nothing flashy, everything quietly considered.
The region
The region itself is a draw. In winter, ski slopes are close by – St. Moritz to the south, Zuoz just five minutes up the road. In summer, the valley offers walking paths, high passes, and picture-book villages like Guarda, where traditional Engadin houses cluster tightly around cobbled squares. A short drive brings you to Pontresina, the Bernina Pass, or the Italian border. But it is also possible to spend the day doing very little at all – sitting on the small terrace with a book, letting the dry mountain air and distant cowbells fill the silence.
Culinary
Breakfast at Villa Flor is generous but informal. There is no buffet; guests are served at their table, and requests are met without fuss. Mornings often begin with conversation between strangers who share, if not language, then at least an interest in architecture, cuisine, or travel.
The art
Florineth does not promote the hotel as a gallery, but it has become one. Several times a year, exhibitions are held in the public spaces. Some guests have left behind works. One painting by Julian Schnabel, made during his stay, now hangs behind the reception.
Ideal for
Villa Flor is not luxurious in a traditional sense. There is no spa, no formal dining room. But it offers something harder to find: a quiet, intelligent space in a landscape of rare beauty. For those traveling toward Italy, it can also be part of a larger route – a natural pairing with a house like Maso Zambo near Lake Como, just under three hours away.
Prices
Doubles from 350 Swiss Francs.
Contact
Villa Flor
Somvih 19
S-chanf
Switzerland
