First, a little geography, since La Donaira is big but not exactly easy to find. Most international visitors arrive via Seville (about an hour and a half by car) or Málaga (about two hours). If you are not pressed for time, consider spending a night or two in either city; both are well worth it.
From there, head toward Ronda and on to the little white village of El Gastor, where you park your car, for good reason: the gravel road up to La Donaira is steep, so a driver comes down to collect guests in the village square.
Ten minutes later, you arrive in another world: some 700 hectares (1,700 acres) of unspoiled land, mountains, hills and steppe, 80 horses and countless sheep, chickens and cattle. There is a Mongolian yurt on a hillside, a bathhouse with a long pool, and a stone outdoor pool ringed by raffia sunshades. And in the middle of it all stands the white, typically Andalusian main house, the cortijo.
We are shown around and taken to our room. Each one is completely different, but they all share an abundance of beautiful, simple details.
Our first impression: magnificent. Someone has clearly fulfilled a dream here and loves to share it with like-minded people.
The Idea
Simply put, the conventional has had its day. Nobody really needs a marble bathroom, and a top chef should serve four honest dishes rather than twelve fancy ones. To spare guests every decision, all meals are included: breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, with the menu discussed in advance. Everyone lives together in harmony here: guests, owners and the roughly 80 staff across the estate.
The loveliest spot in the house is the kitchen, a large, high-ceilinged room in the former stable. In the middle is a big, inviting table with comfortable stools, from which you watch the cooks at work. By afternoon, it smells of freshly baked bread, a waiter brings you a glass of red wine, and you plan the next day’s activities.
Experiences
Our morning started early: at around 6:30 a.m., we set off with the rising sun for the summit of the estate’s own mountain. It is a beautiful, narrow trail past white Lusitano horses, one of Europe’s oldest breeds, which originated in neighboring Portugal. After about 45 minutes, you reach the top of the Malaver (1,122 meters, or 3,681 feet) and look out over a breathtaking landscape of tiny white villages and mountains straight out of an old western.
The afternoon was all about horsemanship. In a round pen, a trainer teaches you how to build trust with the horses: it is all about positive energy and how you approach the animals. If you have never done anything like it, we highly recommend it.
Experienced riders can, of course, head out on horseback; the estate is big enough for day rides. But be aware that this is a real farm, with goats, sheep, Pajuna and Wagyu cattle, Berrenda cows, more than 300 chickens and its own beehives. Non-riders can grab a mountain bike and explore the gravel tracks, a real experience.
The Herb Garden
Also not to be missed: a tour with former ballet dancer Gigi through his medicinal herb garden next to the main house. He grows 350 medicinal plants, some of them very rare, and has a story for each. In the middle of the garden is the Asian plant Gynostemma pentaphyllum, the so-called herb of immortality, which is said to promise a longer life (which doesn’t sound too bad).
Spa
The spa house is a masterpiece, with a large indoor pool where you can actually swim laps, plus a sauna and steam bath. You can book it entirely for yourself for a while and relax in private, with an exceptional view of the surrounding nature and mountains. Also magical: the outdoor pool overlooking the estate and the valley.
Quick Facts
There are seven different rooms in the main house, some of them suitable for families with children, plus two luxuriously furnished Mongolian yurts on the hill, from which it is a two-minute walk down to the main house for breakfast. We highly recommend the yurts, which are really more like suites. The Michelin Guide has awarded La Donaira one Michelin Key.
If you arrive in the afternoon feeling peckish, you can order something from the kitchen.
Ideal for
Anyone who wants to spend a week experiencing something special: Andalusia unplugged. Now and then there is a retreat, and sometimes visiting artists play the grand piano. Sometimes it is the owner who plays.
Price
Doubles from 880 euros, including all meals (excursions and guest experiences extra).
Booking & Contact
Finca La Donaira
Camino de las Minas, s/n
29430 Montecorto (Málaga)
Spain
