Welcome to Mauterndorf in the Lungau, about an hour’s drive south of Salzburg. The village looks like an Austrian postcard: beautiful historic houses surrounded by meadows and mountains, a river running through the center and, on a hill above it all, an old white castle. What a start.
Right in the middle of it all, diagonally across from the old post office, is the epicenter of good food: the Mesnerhaus. Locals know it has long been a temple for gourmets, and it still is. Since Maria and Josef Steffner took over in 2007, guests have come from all over the world to taste the menu. Josef runs the kitchen; Maria takes care of the guests and the wine cellar.
Having had the good fortune to try the full menu, we can attest to one thing: this is one of the finest restaurants anywhere. If you want to know exactly what is served, read on. If you prefer to be surprised, skip the next section and book your table at info@mesnerhaus.at.
The restaurant
The restaurant occupies the historic Mesnerhaus itself, whose foundations date back to 1420. You enter through a large red door and climb the stairs to the two dining rooms on the second floor, where paintings by rotating guest artists hang on the walls. A friendly sommelier wheels a cart to your white-clothed table and offers aperitifs, among them white port with tonic and ice. A perfect start.
The cuisine is regional with international accents. You choose between four, six, eight or ten courses (à la carte is also available). For a special occasion, we recommend the full culinary journey, the ten-course “Great Seduction,” with wine pairing. Our highlight: Lungau Ächtlinge potatoes with sour cream, egg yolk and caviar from Walter Grüll, Austria’s little-known caviar king. You can find the full menu here.
The chef
Anyone who follows Pretty Hotels knows that we place little value on stars or awards; the flood of prizes handed out in recent years has made most of them meaningless. What matters is that the food tastes wonderful and that you have a special evening (or lunch). For the record, though: the Mesnerhaus holds a Michelin star and four Gault&Millau toques.
At the Mesnerhaus, we can guarantee it. Nothing here is staged. When you dine, Josef is in the kitchen himself; he does not run 32 restaurants in Bangkok and Dubai on the side. Among his peers, his cooking is not just respected but revered.
The hotel
In 2020, Maria and Josef bought the house next door and completely renovated it. Since 2021, they have offered seven charming accommodations, six rooms and a suite, for guests who want to stay longer. The style is modern yet cozy, with lots of wood and contemporary fixtures in the bathrooms. Everything is spotless, and you feel at home whether you come in summer to eat and hike or in winter to eat and ski. Between the two buildings is a lounge for coffee or a drink. Down in the garden, Josef grows his own herbs, and in a small cellar, we found fermented delicacies in mason jars.
Surroundings
What makes Mauterndorf special is its idyllic setting combined with the proximity of spectacular mountains. In winter especially, guests like to stay a whole week to ski. There is a ski area right in the village, and the neighboring resort of Obertauern, with some 100 kilometers (60 miles) of slopes starting at an altitude of about 1,700 meters, is only about 20 minutes away by car. Here is the map to look at.
We loved it in summer, too: the area is a paradise for hiking and biking.
Prices
Doubles from 160 to 240 euros per night, including breakfast. The four-course tasting menu costs 88 euros per person; the ten-course “Great Seduction” costs 180 euros.
Booking & Contact
Mesnerhaus
Markt 56
5570 Mauterndorf
Austria
